The big brunch review: The Loft at Dubai Opera

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New name, management and a brand new brunch

Only 16 months after opening, award-winning chef Sean Connolly announced that his restaurant in Dubai Opera was closing its doors. But just two weeks later, new concept The Loft opened under new management. Not too dissimilar to the brasserie-style cuisine and décor of Sean Connolly (although largely stripped back), the owners of The Loft clearly wanted to make an impression by launching its brunch with aplomb – the playfully named Lofty Caviar Brunch.

It’s a brave move considering that the thought of caviar divides diners into two camps: those who adore it, and those who wouldn’t touch the stuff. Regardless of which category you fall into, you’ll want to visit this brunch on the rooftop of Dubai Opera. Why? Because besides the enormous barrel of salt-cured roe, there’s so much more to enjoy.

 

Among the cooking stations dotted around the glorious sun-dappled rooftop of Dubai Opera are an oyster counter (complete with friendly oyster shucker, rapidly opening oyster shells as quickly as his merry hands can move), a barbecue counter, where marinated steak and large prawns sizzle, a pasta and risotto counter, lovingly prepared on a huge Parmesan wheel, and a couple of cocktail stations thrown in for good measure.

And of course, there’s the caviar station – the biggest collection of AmStur caviar in town – at the front of the terrace, which you can either indulge in or give a wide berth.

Brilliantly at the Lofty brunch, it’s not about getting up, queuing for your food and sitting back down again. Instead, it’s more of a laidback, leisurely affair. In fact, if you want them to, the charming staff will help collect dishes from the cooking stations for you, whilst serving other dishes from a separate brunch menu. Think foie gras, lamb shoulder, burrata, duck fat chips and pa- seared seabass, all brought to your table, too. It’s a genuine gourmet feast of epic proportions and one we’d be more than delighted to attend again. It’s certainly one of the better brunches we’ve been to in a long time…

The Loft Terrace, Rooftop, Dubai Opera, Downtown Dubai, Fri noon to 4pm, Dhs495 with soft drinks and caviar, Dhs695 with champagne, house drinks and caviar. Tel: (04) 3627312. facebook.com/theloftatopera

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Images: Supplied