Is it style over substance at this stunning fountain view spot?

Zeta is the final piece in the Address Downtown puzzle, as the last restaurant to open in the hotel after it’s near two-and-a-half-year refurbishment. But what does this ‘Mediterrasian’ restaurant bring to the plate that’s not already on the table?

Perched on the furthest edge of the hotel terrace, it’s accessed by a wooden bridge and lit up by twinkly lights. It guides you over the hotel’s expansive infinity pool, and certainly nails it when it comes to first impressions. 

It’s just as impressive once you reach the hostess desk. The open-air space is surprisingly big, but cleverly split into a restaurant and lounge so it still feels intimate wherever you sit. The lounge side has beanbags on the shisha terrace and high bar stools lining the wall, gazing out towards the glittering Burj Khalifa. On the restaurant side, there’s still some pretty striking views, with romantic tables for two all Burj Khalifa-facing, while big cabanas line the back, likely servicing customers from the pool during the day. 

The setting is undeniably impressive – but does the ‘Mediterrasian’ food measure up? On our visit, it’s a concise two-page menu; one page for the Mediterranean dishes, one for the Asian, but the executive chef advises us that a much longer menu that leans harder towards Mediterranean than Asian is coming next week. It makes sense, considering Japanese Robata, Katana, is just downstairs. 

We kick off with the mixed sushi platter (Dhs260), beautifully presented on a bed of ice and split into sushi, sashimi and nigiri. Everything is fresh and tasty but if we had to pick a favourite it would be the California roll, fresh flakes of crab rolled with cucumber and avocado and topped with tobiko. We follow it up with the Wagyu beef tartare (Dhs120) and chicken karaage (Dhs75). While the chicken is good, it’s nothing special, although it’s complimented by a spiced yuzu dip that’s punchy and gives it a welcome kick. The tartare is a plate of delicately diced beef tenderloin, layered with yuzu and togarashi, which make for a unique taste.

To finish, try the key lime tart (Dhs45) – three perfectly plated citrus tarts with a crunchy meringue stick. Or for something ultra-rich, opt for the warm chocolate fondant (Dhs45). It’s a warm fondant of 64 per cent manjari chocolate topped with a scoop of strong mocha ice cream.

Address Downtown, Downtown Dubai, Sat to Wed 4pm to midnight, Thur and Fri 4pm to 1am. Tel: (04) 8883444.

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