Big brunch review: Bagaeton Drunch at Bistrot Bagatelle Dubai
A new Saturday brunch that’s full of French flavour…
Primarily known as a late-night venue, Bistrot Bagatelle is well versed at creating a vibe that post-corona Dubai can only enjoy through memories. Any restaurant we visit now, we do so with expectations of a subdued atmosphere.
To our surprise though, Bagatelle has in no way lost its touch. In a customised environment, the French eatery succeeded in effortlessly recreating the upbeat, lively atmosphere we know and love.
Its newest dining concept sees the venue opening up in the afternoon for the first time. Every Saturday from 2pm to 5pm, guests can enjoy unlimited plates of signature dishes, before the party continues into the evening.
When we arrive the restaurant is already filled, with socially distanced tables bustling with conversation and laughter. The menu had us instantly drooling as we peruse while tucking into a Nutella-dipped pain au chocolat – because why not?
There’s a long list of cold and hot starters, each more delicious than the last. As we were permitted to enjoy as many re-orders as we liked, the ones we kept reaching for included a burrata truffée, fresh capaccio de veau and the tartare de thon on a bed of creamy avocado.
One dish that divided opinions at our table was the calamars frits – activated charcoal calamari with lemon aioli. The dish arrived with an appearance as though the chef had left it in the oven a few hours too long. But while it confused some, others were more than happy with the charred taste.
Each guest can choose their own main course, which offers a varied mix of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes. We opt for the linguini au homard épicé (lobster linguini), which although perfectly al dente with a large portion of seafood, didn’t live up to the bar set by the starters.
Just as we’re preparing to be rolled out of the room, our attentive waitress returns with a giant tray, presumably straight from a Parisian patisserie.
Freshly baked cinnamon rolls, cream-filled eclairs and zesty lemon cheesecake find their way onto our plate. It must be true what they say about desserts going to a separate stomach because somehow we manage to sample all of the delicious sweets.
Throughout the meal, we’re kept entertained with a vibrant Reggaeton DJ set. Although dancing is still not allowed, we’re happy just to bop in our seats and pretend we know the lyrics to the Spanish soundtrack.
Bistrot Bagatelle Dubai, Fairmont Dubai, Sheikh Zayed Road, Saturdays, 2pm to 5pm, Dhs350 non-alcoholic, Dhs390 bellini package, Dhs450 house drinks, Dhs490 premium package. Tel: (04) 354 5035. bagatelledubai.com