Bar of the month: Gohan at La Cantine Du Faubourg
Speakeasy vibes meets elegant Japanese eatery in this hip hangout…
Hiding behind another business (La Cantine Du Faubourg, in this case) is a new and exciting concept for Dubai, but Gohan can’t conceal the crowds waiting to win entry to its small windowless barroom.
Dimly-lit cube lanterns, red hues, low ceilings and occasional intimate DJ shows create a slick Tokyo meets Flat Iron New York speakeasy aesthetic. Once inside, diners will experience elegant Japanese street food with a refined menu of skewers, sushi and gyoza, that use top quality ingredients, throwing the likes of fois gras and caviar into the mix to up the dishes to a Dubai ‘high life’ level.
We thoroughly enjoyed the rich – and tableside-prepared – Wagyu truffle maki (Dhs110), the sticky and spicy chicken wings with sesame and chili (Dhs42), and the indulgent chicken and foie gras gyoza served with delicate yuzu dashi dressing (Dhs75).
The highlight was perhaps the tender octopus kushiyaki (Dhs45) coates in an almost gummy ginger butter.
The drinks menu, unlike the food menu, is vast, with an enormous variety ranging from sake by the carafe to wines by the bottle, while the separate menu of seven signature cocktails, inspired by the seven lucky Gods of Japan, fuses unique blends with aromatic herbs and spices that seem to all pair seamlessly with the food.
As you leave Gohan, past La Cantine’s bottle fridges and out in the French restaurant’s bright and loud dining room, it’s hard not to feel a little smug about your hip new hidden hangout.
Gohan, La Cantine Du Fauboug, Jumeirah Emirates Towers, Sun to Thur noon to 4pm, daily 7pm to 2am. Tel: (0)4 352 7105. @gohandubai