A global icon joins the Dubai scene…

The Dubai EDITION Hotel in Downtown Dubai has some pretty incredible names on its food and beverage roster. Recently, Sumosan, a globally acclaimed restaurant has joined the ranks. For this reason, and the fact that we adore Japanese cuisine – we had to check it out.

Upon entering the hotel our eyes are immediately drawn to the grand fusilli-shaped staircase that acts as centrepiece to the sleek and modern lobby. Onwards, we stroll into the restaurant’s dark and moody interiors that make for a deliciously intimate setting. It’s early and the dining room is quiet with few patrons scattered around, but the vibe is upbeat not least because of the in-house DJ busying himself with his craft.

Seated at our table, Dimitri, our server for the evening introduces himself and explains that Sumosan is a strictly sharing-style restaurant, so dishes will be served to the middle of the table for everybody’s enjoyment. He suggests that we start the evening with cocktails, and we enjoy the Sakura (Dhs80) — a fruity and refreshing sake and vodka-based sip.

We entrust our dining experience to Dimitri and await what has been promised to be “the ultimate Sumosan experience.” A tour through the menu’s signature dishes that includes the classic Sumosan lobster surprise salad (Dhs190) and the famous crispy sushi rice pizza with salmon furikake (Dhs75).

We’re given chopsticks as the tools with which to dissect these plates, and despite some apprehension about attacking a salad with a pair of pincers — the surprise is revealed and, mercifully, is perfectly pinchable. Bite-sized portions are squeezed between the chopsticks and are accompanied by a delightful zesty and fragrant salad dressing. Two L’s we’d be happy to take again any day of the week.

The crispy rice pizza comes with a heavy dusting of spices atop the freshly cut salmon and makes for a perfectly amalgamated bite, beneath the salmon we were greeted by thinly sliced cucumber which elevates the intricate flavours of the plate. Our only note — we would have preferred the crispy rice to have had more crisp to it.

Onto the sushi course and we’re jovially warned that if we dip the T&T (tuna and truffle) maki rolls (Dhs100) in soy, we can leave. Because all jokes come with at least a kernel of truth, we decide not to test the staff of Sumosan, and follow their, what turns out to be sage, advice. The combination of truffle mayo and fattiness of the tuna, carefully rolled in sushi rice and then incrusted with aromatic roe provide all the flavour you’d ever want in such a bite.

Dimitri also included one of his personal recommendations — the spicy Hamachi (Dhs85) which is rolled in quinoa and is superbly crispy. Lastly, we delight in Chu toro nigiri (Dhs80), a cut prepared from the fatty belly of tuna. We dip the nigiri, fish side down into the soy, let it sit for a short time, remerging for a “melts in the mouth” experience.

So focused on the refined fare in front of us, we barely notice the restaurant filling up. But as our eyes greet the inbound dessert, the buzz is palpable. Our sweets are refreshing and light — an uncommon combination of melted white chocolate, mint leaves and pineapple (Dhs70), served on shaved ice. Every last drop of mouthful is scooped before we retire.

What’s On Verdict: Japanese restaurants aplenty, sometimes it’s hard to choose but Sumosan Dubai does the brand proud. A love letter to Japanese dishes that keeps the culture, tastes and traditions alive with immaculate flair.

Sumosan, The Dubai EDITION Hotel, Downtown Dubai, Sun to Thu 6pm to 2am, Fri and  Sat 6pm to 3am. Tel: (0)56 169 6901 sumosan.com