Review: The Luncheon at Studio Frantzén

Now this is a worthwhile reason to leave your bed on a Saturday…

Studio Frantzén landed in Dubai last year with all the hooha-hoopla of a celebrity chef-backed brand, laden with shiny Michelin stars and endless praise in tow. The brains and the brawn behind this operation, Chef Björn Frantzén, is a man of many accolades, helming a pair of three-Michelin-starred restaurants and most recently, making a standout debut in Dubai’s culinary honeycomb. The people have spoken, and they have loved what the spot has to offer.

Having had a couple of months to warm up the grills and dust off the cushions, the restaurant has now forayed into the world of the set menu. The Luncheon is the bear’s take on the lunchtime deal, a somewhat commercial proposition that does well to attract a certain demographic of diners. Usually, we have the corporate world convening to close deals over steaming hot plates, but The Luncheon is a weekend affair, which means no suits and boots – only hungry holidayers.

The deal…

Two courses for Dhs195, with a starter, a main and a side. Curated beverage package featuring wine, cocktails, champagne, and mocktail options for an additional Dhs225.

What’s On the menu?

We dine on a quiet Saturday, seated in a small, cosy booth with a direct view of the open kitchen. Upon first glance at the menu, one can tell it has been designed to be a crowd pleaser, with classical choices and lunchtime favourites, like the seabass ceviche, four different variations of oysters, roasted cauliflower, striploin, salmon and a hearty beef burger, to name a few of the options. It’s a bit of a global amalgamation, staying true to the Modern European bistro label, but it’s good and safe, and everyone is sure to be fed.

We go for the hamachi crudo and the grilled tiger prawn to start. The crudo, served with radishes, ume kosho and fermented strawberry, is a fitting entrant, almost a palate cleanser, with a bright tang and a chilled, bodied bite, while still staying light. The tiger prawn comes with a fermented red curry dressing and a ginger aoli, and is the clear winner between the two – the curry packs a punch and the aoli only adds, but none of them are overpowering. It’s a simmering, savoury delight.

For the mains, we opt for Angus beef striploin and the Wagyu beef burger. The meat in both the dishes is cooked to perfection, but that’s hardly a surprise. The striploin comes with a fermented kampot pepper cream sauce, salty, with a subtle kick, which cuts the fat of the meat beautifully. The burger, almost oversized and topped high with condiments like crispy onion, pickled shiitake, Japanese mustard emulsion and cheddar cheese, is a weekend lunch meal through and through. It’s big, it’s messy, with so much texture and flavour – a nutty umami from the mushroom, crispy sweetness from the onion and a herby kick from the mustard. This is what you have when you’ve got nothing to be responsible for after.

By now, our warm, watchful server has brought us some sweet treats from the Candy Room, Easter-themed cookies and sour candy – a fitting end to a menu like The Luncheon. It’s easy, it’s fun and it delivers on the expectation of the quality you attach to big-name restaurants, without any of the fuss, frills and gold leaf. Just plain, good food.

What’s On Verdict: Highly inoffensive and delicious – we recommend.

Studio Frantzén, Atlantis, The Palm, Palm Jumeirah, Sat and Sun, 12pm to 4pm, Dhs195, Tel: (0) 54 584 3105, @studiofrantzendubai

Images: Supplied