Review: Could FZN by Björn Frantzén be Dubai’s first three Michelin star spot?
One of two new Dubai restaurants by the world-renowned chef, here’s what you can expect at the Dhs2,000 dining experience…
Dubai is no stranger to luxury fine dining, but FZN by Björn Frantzén takes things to an entirely new level. Located at Atlantis, The Palm, this two-floor culinary theatre redefines the art of dining, blending Nordic precision with Japanese finesse. Inspired by Frantzén’s three-starred establishments in Stockholm and Singapore, expectations were undeniably high, and the restaurant more than delivers.
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From the moment you arrive, FZN feels more like an intimate dinner party than a traditional fine-dining venue. After ringing the doorbell to enter, guests are ushered into a stylish living room where five amuse-bouches introduce the evening. Among them, the ‘raraka,’ a crispy, cylinder-shaped hash brown, stands out. It’s made with sour cream, vendace roe, lemon zest, pickled red onion, and chives—two days in the making and an early hint at the precision to follow.
Following a brief tour of the restaurant, guests are invited downstairs to the dining room (if you can, make sure to request a seat at the chef’s counter). The full view of the open kitchen, the choreography of the chefs, and the palpable energy of the space make for an experience that transcends food alone.
The nine-course tasting menu is a carefully constructed narrative, weaving modern European techniques with Japanese influences. Plates arrive at an impeccable pace, allowing each dish its moment, while ingredients of unparalleled quality shine through. The service, too, is an art form: the team, handpicked from across the globe, moves like a symphony, with each member playing their part with finesse and remarkable expertise.
Among the highlights is the langoustine, fried for a mere 12 seconds and coasted with koshihikari rice dipped in a ginger emulsion. Then there’s the otoro tartare, shaped into a delicate rose, paired with Japanese black turnip, fermented strawberry, and coffee oil—a delightful balance of texture and flavour. The blushing-pink grilled duck, topped with seared foie gras, fresh Japanese wasabi, miso cured in yuzu, and sweet pepper sauce is stunning, yet the pillowy warm milk bread slathered with XO sauce steals the show with its explosion of umami deliciousness.
Pairings are as thoughtful as the food, with wine (Dhs1,400) or non-alcoholic options (Dhs750) complementing the menu’s intricate flavours. One of my favourite pairings was the non-alcoholic oxidised pear, sobacha, and dong ding tea which was served with the standout chawanmushi, a savoury egg custard topped with aged beef broth, and a rather generous bump of caviar.
After dessert, guests can head back upstairs to experience the terrace with views of the Dubai skyline, where petit fours, post-dinner drinks, and perhaps a board game provide a perfect conclusion to a dreamy dining experience.
Yes, at Dhs2,000 per person, FZN is a splurge. But for an evening that blends culinary artistry, flawless service, unique produce, and a sense of occasion, it’s a dining experience unlike any other in the city. Could this be Dubai’s first three-Michelin-star restaurant? Only time will tell—but it’s definitely a strong contender.
Verdict: FZN isn’t just a meal, it’s an experience, a performance, and a memory in the making. Take the love of your life and treasure every second.
FZN, Atlantis, The Palm. Tues to Sat, from 7pm. Dhs2,000 per person. Guests aged 13 and above welcome. @restaurantfzn / Book a table here
Images: Supplied