Review: Loona, a chic Italian gem in Downtown
This bright and beautiful Italian restaurant promises an extensive menu and licensed dining on the Downtown Boulevard…
On Downtown Boulevard, where palm trees prettily adorned in fairy lights illuminate rows of shops, cafes and boutique fitness studios, there aren’t many licensed restaurants. There’s Fouquet’s, the fancy French eatery. There’s TOTO and Tatel, the duo of Cristiano Ronaldo-backed restaurants bringing some celebrity pizzaz to Hotel Boulevard, Autograph Collection. And then there’s the multi award-winning Jun’s, a masterful menu by third culture kid and all-round culinary nice guy, chef Kelvin Cheung. But now there’s a new restaurant to add to that list, Loona, a self-described neighbourhood Italian that hails from Moscow. It’s found on the ground floor of the Vida Downtown Residence.
There’s a grandeur to the venue: triple height ceilings, mother of pearl cutlery, marble counters, and a three floor wine fridge that makes it clear that this venue is licensed. A bar in a warmly lit alcove, a bright restaurant space that features white table clothed tables, rows of leather tables, and an impressive show kitchen with a handful of counter seats at it. It isn’t your typical iteration of a neighbourhood eatery, but there’s still elements that give that cosy feel, like the different types of pasta hanging neatly in the kitchen.
We’re here at lunchtime, and make the most of the striking Burj Khalifa view that tables near the window boast. A large A3 menu is presented to us, and we’re almost overwhelmed by the choice. There’s an extensive crudo section, lots of antipasti, salads, breads, pasta, pizza, signature dishes and an array of desserts, and while it’s undoubtedly heavily Italian, it’s no purists menu. Although that’s no bad thing. While we raise an eyebrow at Italian-style sushi and a burger, there are some other options that pleasantly catch our attention.
The tuna carpaccio (Dhs105) arrives as two slivers of a citrusy-infused bluefin tuna, topped with capers, rocket and tomato. It’s not like the typical tuna carpaccio’s we’ve tried before, and that’s no bad thing. The flavour combination is excellent, and it’s just light enough to leave us wanting more. We stick with the classics when ordering a tomato bruschetti (Dhs60) and the simple flavours sing. Our only wish is for a little more toasting for the bread. We savour every mouthful of the Sicilian style prawns (Dhs50), which arrive on a bed of creamy cauliflower puree, and is easily one of our standout dishes of the meal.
For mains it’s impossible to pick between the dishes, and we wish we had more room. But we opt for a spaghetti with clams (Dhs110), a rich and generous bowl of pasta, that gets the ratio of clam to pasta just right. The tagliolini with truffle (Dhs125) is buttery and infused with just the right amount of truffle. It’s indulgent and well executed, another prime example of letting simple ingredients do the talking.
Loona’s well-versed team insist that the lemon tart with meringue (Dhs45) is a must-try, and they’re not wrong. It’s creamy and zesty in all the right places, and finished tableside for extra impact. We devour every bite.
Verdict: A great new addition to Downtown’s licensed dining scene, it’s approachable for business lunches or date nights in equal measure, and the extensive menu is sure to have something for everyone.
Loona, Vida Downtown Residences, Downtown Boulevard, daily 9am to midnight. @loona.uae