Brunches pull no punches at this seaside spot…

On a sweltering Sunday in Yas Bay, we’re dreaming of La Dolce Vita. But we’re not taking a detour on our way to the airport. Instead, we’re at this vibrant waterfront dining destination for the new Italian brunch at Paradiso. The six-course feast is a celebration of Italy’s celebrated flavours, paired with a selection of unlimited drinks.

With congenial service headlined by elaborate descriptions of our food and its preparation, we are introduced to a bread basket, presented with olive oil and a dash of balsamic vinegar to ‘open up the appetite.’ To sip on, a steaming hot cappuccino arrives as we start our sensory engines.

Images: supplied

We are seated at wooden chairs, around a table laden with simple white linen, alongside big glass panels facing the water. Symbolic with the aquamarine vastness Paradiso overlooks, Omani shrimps olive tapenade makes its way to the table. The food is refreshing, cool and crispy with aromatic olive highlighting the Italian indulgence we are here to enjoy. Salty and tender, you could close your eyes as you bite into these, imagining yourself as a seafarer on the Mediterranean.

Shortly after, truffle arancini with marinara sauce is served. Bite-sized spheres stuffed with truffle and short-grain arboro rice, the marinara is stellar, setting the standard for Italian fare that swiftly follows. Next up is the ai funghi misti, which gives mushrooms new meaning as a pizza topping. These are bigger, juicier and more fragrant than any we’ve had before, and we are perfectly content letting them take centre stage on this pizza.

The main course, pan seared sea bass fillet with roasted baby potatoes is an elaborately prepared, delicately decorated dish that looks almost as good as it tastes. The mild, memorable flavours and signature texture of sea bass are to savour, but we recommend pacing yourself as it can get quite filling.

For beverages to accompany brunch, we strongly recommend the saffran mule (Dhs50), Paradiso’s spin on the vodka-based star from Moscow. The drink is sprayed with edible perfume as you’re served, in an arrangement like no other.

Dessert arrives to conclude things sweetly and we lean forward to inhale the fragrance of the Paradiso tiramisu. There’s that smell again, coffee. Brunch has come full circle at Paradiso, and we recommend you get a table the next time you’re in Yas Bay.

Verdict: Elaborate, flavourful Italian brunch that will take a good afternoon to relish.

Paradiso, 71 Yas Bay Waterfront Pier, Yas Island, 12pm to 4pm, Sun, Dhs250 soft, Dhs350 house, Dhs450 sparkling. Tel: (0)50 437 2869.