As it nears 10 years of operations, Boca continues to prove why it’s so much more than just a restaurant…

“These salicornia are probably some of the last we’ll get this season, you have to try them,” Omar Shihab, the founder of Boca tells us passionately, presenting two small bowls of what look like skinny asparagus heads in front of us. “They’re a potentially very exciting new super food, and they come from right here in the UAE,” he explains animatedly. These salicornia have come from Umm Al Quwain, and are a type of halophyte, which Boca is currently exploring the use of across its menus. It’s the latest addition to this pioneering restaurant’s industry-leading sustainability initiatives, that look to further the use of local produce not only in their own restaurant in DIFC, but across the city. With intrigue and some apprehension, I take a bite. They’re a little briney, a little citrusy, and a little salty. I probably wouldn’t eat a bowl of them by themselves, but I can certainly imagine them fitting in well on Boca’s menu.

The restaurant is coming up to a decade of operation, which in Dubai years is no mean feat. When Boca started out in 2014, they looked to include a dish or two that featured seafood from the local fish market. But over the last ten years, the sustainability programme has expanded to a 30-page, 5-pillar sustainability manifesto covering everything from local sourcing to their energy consumption, which has resulted in Boca being recognised with a Green Michelin Star in the Dubai Michelin Guide for the last two years.

And while its eco-efforts must be applauded, how does the Spanish restaurant’s menu measure up in DIFC’s ever-competitive culinary landscape? We start with the refreshing Manzanilla olives (Dhs35), stuffed with local lemon that adds a zesty touch; and the quintessentially Spanish tortilla de patatas (Dhs40), which transports us to a cosy tapas bar in the back streets of Madrid with every bite. Then there’s the gambas al ajillo (Dhs70) another staple of Spain, where the powerful garlic and chili flavours sing through the fresh and flavourful ingredients. The kokotxas de bacalao (Dhs125) is prettily plated, with a cod jowl set in a parsley velouté and peppered with peas but doesn’t have the high-impact flavour of some of the other dishes.

We return to more impressive territory with the seared confit artichokes (Dhs105), a veggie dish that’s the surprise hit of the meal, with dried cherry tomatoes, a tangy vinaigrette, and crispy sunchokes. And when the gulf seabream (Dhs120) arrives, a piece of flaky fish, crunchy bok choy and a creamy green curry sauce, both the textures and flavours are note-perfect.

It’s hard to find space to squeeze in a dessert, but we’re glad we force ourselves to when the tocino de cielo (Dhs55) arrives. This rich caramel dessert is given Boca’s sustainable twist, with a pineapple sorbet created from pulp and a gel made from pineapple skin, dotted on a plate with a swirl of creamy labneh and crunchy mini meringues.

Verdict: While Boca’s sustainability initiatives deserve to be shouted about, it still remains an all-round excellent restaurant.

Boca, Gate Village 6, DIFC, 12pm to 3am daily. Tel: (0)4 323 1833. boca.ae