Review: Lila Molino is all about good food, and good food only

 There’s only one star in this show…

There’s a fair chance that if you’re aware of Lila Taqueria, you’re aware of Lila Molino. The latter is the former’s much-larger and tastefully expansive younger sister, both helmed by the watchful, tender eye and many years of a love affair with Mexican food of Chef Shaw Lash. Lila Molino opened it’s doors in a corner of Alserkal Avenue not that long ago – it’s a cafe, it’s a marketplace and above all, it’s where you should go if you couldn’t care less about fancies and frills.

Ambiance

The culinary model of Alserkal Avenue, certified cool central of Dubai, has very a specific blueprint. Most of the spaces derive it’s aesthetic beauty not from massive chandeliers and towering columns, but from pastel walls, sparse furniture, the materials of nature and free run greenery. Here, less is more and less is beautiful.

Our visit to Lila Molino takes places on a quiet night, where upon entering we’re greeted with a similar sight. It’s big and airy, still having retained a lot of the barebones elements of the warehouse structure – concrete walls, exposed vents and all that.

The personality comes from the burnt orange tiles, the concept store and farm shop to your right, selling artisanal cutlery and fresh ingredients, and the collection of traditional Mexican paintings on display on the walls. Everything about Lila Molino pays a tribute to the homeland.

Food

We start off with some drinks – the Paloma (Dhs35) and the coconut horchata (28). The horchata, an authentic Mexican export made from rice, is a life-changing revelation. Incredibly smooth, creamy and filled with the soul-warming powers of cinnamon, this is the beverage of summer. We had about three between the two of us. The Paloma is fruity and feisty, with a strong aftertaste of jalapeno. We’re all for savoury drinks these days.

The starters come as chips, salsa and guacamole (Dhs68) – the chips freshly fried to a cracking crisp but not unpleasantly greasy, the salsa bright and light, and the chilled guacamole perfectly rich to complete the trifecta of textures.

The tamale of cheese with red chilli (Dhs40) is our personal favourite, a steamed cake of cornmeal goodness and smoky poblano peppers layered with melting cheeses and served with a chile dip. The spicy sauce makes every bite of the tamale a party in your mouth. The tostadas of chicken tinga (Dhs50) are packed with high flavour – chipotle chicken, black beans, avocado, the works. Despite the numerous ingredients, you can taste exactly what each one brings to the table.

For the mains, we have the crispy chicken torta (Dhs65), essentially a sandwich and a hefty one, filled with crispy chicken, cheese, onions, chiles and black beans. It’s delicious but a bit generic. The crispy verde chicken gringa (Dhs60) is a big, fat quesadilla, salty from a blanket of cheese and filled with grilled chicken guacamole and more typical Mexican fillings. The smoked brisket enchiladas (Dhs90) are the heaviest of the three, a mish-mash of red chile enchiladas filled with smoky meat and a lot of cheese. There is no dearth of flavour and fat – this is a lavish creation.

As we tuck into dessert – churros (Dhs40), a fine balance of sugar and depth, and coconut lime tres leches cake (Dhs35), a milky, light amalgamation of Mexico’s best – we remark why Lila Molino will work. The fare, while not overly inventive, is wholesome, hearty, made with fresh produce and a love for the discipline, and strives to stay true – to Mexico, to Chef Shaw and to you.

What’s On verdict: The hype is for real – don’t miss out.

Lila Molino, Alserkal Avenue, Dubai, Tues to Sun, 9am to 10pm, closed on Mon, Tel: (0) 4 388 5600, @lilamolino

Images: Socials