Is this relaunched seafood outlet worthy of your dirhams?

One of three recently renovated restaurants at Fairmont The Palm, Seagrill Bistro’s name might ring a bell as it was formerly known as Seagrill On 25. But there’s more than just a name change going on here. The new decor is simple and contemporary – think high ceilings, white-washed interiors and simple splashes of orange and blue hues thanks to a scattering of soft furnishings and artworks.

The restaurant offers both indoor and outdoor alfresco seating, and weather permitting, we’d pick a seat outdoors every time. The terrace is a casual space, lit by twinkling fairy lights in the trees that’s split into bigger cabana-style tables for families and big groups, and more intimate tables for two closer to the entrance. It extends out towards the pool and beach.

The menu is simple and plays it safe – don’t expect and culinary boundaries to be challenged here. Starters focused on salads and tartares, and both a poached octopus salad (Dhs85), and rare seared tuna (Dhs85) were beautifully presented. But it was a case of style over substance with the octopus, which was dry and chewy. The tuna dish fare better and was a highlight. The pieces of fish were complimented by roasted aubergine, tomato and celery and a zesty pesto dressing.

Again, the mains were a little hit and miss. The sea bass escalivada (Dhs165) was a table pleaser – it was grilled just right and flaked seamlessly off the knife, but wasn’t dry and in danger of losing its flavour. Order extra sides to go with it, though (the gratin dauphinoise and fine beans, Dhs30 each, were both well-crafted sidekicks). Meanwhile, the lobster rolls (Dhs165) were made of top-quality hunks of fresh Atlantic meat but we only wish there had been more of them.

Dessert here though fared best – a plentiful portion of creme brulee (Dhs50) served with sable and fresh raspberries was so good we had to stop ourselves from licking the dish clean.

This will be a great spot for sundowners once it cools down, but most of the food lacked any kind of wow factor – there are more worthy spots to enjoy top-class seafood in the city.

Fairmont The Palm, Palm Jumeirah, Sat to Weds 12pm to 11.30pm, Thurs and Fri 12pm to 12am. Tel: (04) 457 3457.

– For more about Dubai straight to your newsfeed, follow us on Facebook.