Brunch review: La Riviera at Torno Subito Dubai
Michelin Star dining get’s a signature Dubai twist…
As one of only 11 Michelin Star restaurants in Dubai, there’s a level of expectation for any restaurant that makes it onto that exclusive list. Couple that with being the brainchild of one of the world’s most celebrated chefs, and Torno Subito has its work cut out.
While you might expect the first Massimo Bottura restaurant outside of Italy to adopt a traditional approach to fine dining, all white gloves, silver service and perfectly ironed tablecloths, Torno Subito couldn’t be further from that. The restaurant is decorated in endless pastel shades, polaroids hang from the ceiling, and as we arrive on a Saturday afternoon for La Riviera, the restaurant’s brand new brunch, we’re greeted by a friendly bunch of hosts and managers, all eager to welcome us with a fresh and fruity Belleza cocktail, Torno’s take on the classic Bellini.
The brunch menu, like the restaurant itself, draws inspiration from retro days spent on the sun-drenched Italian Riviera in the 1960s, a playful ode to Massimo’s beloved family holidays. So ingredients like cuttlefish and mouthfuls of fried pizza sit alongside Dubai classic dishes like burrata and a truffle mushroom pizza. Some starters are designed to share, like the perfectly plated sea bream carpaccio; while others – including the flavour-packed Gillardeau oyster with dill gazpacho and neat balsamic pearls – we’re glad we get to ourselves.
After starters comes a pasta course, served up to the sounds of a singer performing lively acoustic versions of chart-topping hits from the likes of George Ezra and Bruno Mars. A table-wide hit is the cannolo di ragu: crunchy on the outside, tender in the middle – we just wish there’s more than one each to go around. Mains arrive swiftly after, a sliver of perfectly cooked chicken with slightly-too-al-dente pumpkin parmigiana is eclipsed by a crispy bowl of frito misto, which we delight in dunking in a punchy aioli.
For dessert, a Torno Subito twist on a tiramisu, called Tiramisubito, creates the perfect Insta-moment as we crack through the coffee top. And while we have to confess we’re not fans of this coffee-based medley, those on are table who are tell us that it’s very good.
While on our visit La Riviera brunch is only taking place indoors, we’re told that the brunch will extend onto the terrace soon. When it does, these beachside seats promise to be the hottest tables in the house for offering that chic Riviera feel.
Torno Subito, W Dubai – The Palm, Palm Jumeirah, 1pm to 4pm, Saturdays, Dhs325 soft, Dhs425 house, Dhs525 premium. Tel: (0)4 245 5588, tornosubitodubai.com