Review: La Mar, Atlantis The Royal's trendy Peruvian restaurant
A chic restaurant pioneering Peruvian cuisine…
Since Atlantis The Royal transcended onto the shores of The Palm’s East Crescent, there have been a handful of trendy fine dining restaurants that have caught our eye, with La Mar particularly fascinating us.
Just around the corner from the grand foyer of Atlantis The Royal, La Mar’s floating wooden staircase will transport you to this chic venue, adorned with dark stone and wooden features.
Its sultry interior is complemented by dangling glass light fixtures, a seafood bar layered with sparkling ice, and an illuminated bar that lies along the back of the restaurant.
Guided to our table on the terrace, a panoramic view of the grounds and the Arabian Gulf greet us, with serene palm trees dancing in the wind.
Whilst perusing the menu our waitress illustrates the vast history of Peruvian gastronomy and the ingredients that are their pride and joy, such as Peruvian corn which exceeds over 55 variations. La Mar’s menu consists of dishes that honour Peru’s rich cuisine, with fresh seafood that boasts bold citrussy and smokey flavours.
To start we opt for the nigiri criollo, (Dhs55), consisting of a torched strip of delicate wagyu beef MB7 perched on rice, topped with a gooey quail egg, a sprinkling of green crispy garnish and a smokey lemony sauce. Making for a hefty mouthful, this unusual nigiri ticks all the boxes thanks to its rich umami flavours.
Next up is the brasa ceviche, (Dhs150), consisting of raw bluefin tuna with a smoked aji amarillo leche de tigre. Presented in a dramatic bowl, our waitress proceeds to trickle a blanket of golden sauce onto the tuna while we sit in wonder. The delicate tuna is perfectly coated with the citrusy sauce which had warming smokey essences, perfectly complementing the freshness of the fish.
As we lick the remaining liquid gold from our plates, the flor de papa (Dhs250) arrives. This exquisite work of art has intricately woven layers of Peruvian yellow potato mouse with king crab, avocado and cebichera sauce, and is adorned with luscious cress and pops of edible flowers. Despite its softer texture, this dish lives up to its masterpiece exterior, with all the layers gracefully fusing together creating a symphony of soft flavours with a burst of tangy lime.
We take a welcome intermission as we gaze over the dancing fountain show, basking at the streams of water ebbing and flowing, twirling around each other to the beats of an Arabian melody.
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To follow we dive into esparragos anticuchueros (Dhs85), that layered charred asparagus on a bed of almond sauce and spiced oil. The nutty yet refreshing sauce was eagerly mopped up onto the asparagus, exuding toasty essences.
This is accompanied by arroz con mariscos (Dhs360), a Peruvian rice dish prepared in a wok with Hokkaido scallops, squid, octopus, obsie blue shrimp and sprinkled with avocado. Surprised by the depth of flavour, this aromantic dish exceeds all our expectations, blending charred and citrusy nodes with fresh avocado, and tender seafood.
What’s On Verdict: La Mar is ideal for an evening catching up with friends or a romantic date night spot.
La Mar, Mezzanine level, Atlantis The Royal, daily 6pm to 11pm. Tel:(0)4 426 0000. @lamardubai