Another serving of celebrity chef excellence at Atlantis The Royal…

The man at the helm of this restaurant is Costas Spiliadis, who has been credited with putting Grecian flavours on the international map over the last four decades. Since opening his original Estiatorio Milos in Montreal in 1979, he’s expanded globally with outposts in London, Athens, and New York, with Dubai now taking its place alongside those culinary capitals.

Estiatorio Milos

In Dubai, the restaurant is known simply as Milos, and sits at the heart of one of Dubai’s most lauded luxury hotels, Atlantis The Royal. Milos has snagged the most dazzling setting of all the celebrity chef-led restaurants at the property. As such, the design is grand and modern. Forgoing the traditional taverna feel that most Greek restaurants adopt, the expansive restaurant is a magnificently large space, with double height ceiling, a standout show kitchen, and rows of tables that lead out to the terrace. The terrace is the real showstopper, jutting out over the water of the fountain, providing front-row seats to the choreographed water and fire show that hypnotises diners at regular intervals.

milos calamari

The menu of Grecian and Mediterranean flavours is heavily focused on seafood, so we’re delighted to see an extensive display of fish and shellfish presented on a bed of crushed ice in the corner of the restaurant. With main course selected, we turn our attention back to the menu, kicking things off with half a dozen deliciously plump oysters (Dhs215) served with a zesty vinaigrette. On our visit, they’re Gillardeau, but we’re advised that this changes with local availability. The Milos Special (Dhs95) ends up being our favourite dish of the night, with paper thin slices of lightly battered zucchini and eggplant served with moreish chunks of fried saganaki cheese and a creamy tzatziki. We fight over the final bite. The grilled octopus (Dhs190) is another delightfully well-balanced dish that’s all about simple flavours, with neat bites of tender grilled octopus served with a buttery Santorini fava.

milos sea salt baked fish

The salt crust sea bass (market price per kg) is theatrically deconstructed from its salt shell tableside, drizzled with olive oil and topped with capers. The fish itself is delicious, if a little bit drier than we’d hoped, but when paired with grilled vegetables (Dhs90) such as eggplant and peppers, we don’t notice.

Despite feeling suitably full, we can’t resist trying the Greek yoghurt ice cream (Dhs75). It’s light and deliciously sweet thanks to a drizzle of honey.

What’s On Verdict: Milos is up against some stiff competition at Atlantis The Royal, but its stunning location and focus on ingredients make it well worth adding to your culinary bucket list.

Milos, Atlantis The Royal, Palm Jumeirah, daily 12pm to 4pm, 6pm to 11pm. Tel: (0)4 426 2555.

Images: Supplied by Atlantis the Royal