Unpacking French flavours and Michelin-star elegance by a star international chef…

Chef Nicolas Isnard spearheads the Shangri-La Qaryat Al Beri’s new and improved iteration of Bord Eau, with fine French flavours and Michelin-star elegance coming to the capital’s diners here.

Our gastronomic odyssey begins with the Burgundy – Modern Onion Soup 2.0 (Dhs98). A fresh spin on the French classic, chances are you’ll take your time savouring the flavours and a side of emulsion. Bord Eau gets their gourmet vision right, and with patient service, knowledgable sommeliers and a star chef piloting the experience, they know how to make the best of a voyage and its stopovers.

We head to our second stop,  down in Mexico for a taste-soaked portion of seabass ceviche with guava, citrus corn crisp, and the striking star of the dish, the jalapeño sorbet (Dhs124). While the sorbet might be served cold, the jalapeño brings the sting you seek from Mexican fare. This dish is the star of this evening’s show for us.

Which isn’t to imply in the least, that the other courses don’t leave a lasting impression. Although the concept is French and presented as such, Chef Isnard and Co. do a great job of tapping in to rich flavours native to every region their courses are inspired by.

We traverse the planet in a matter of minutes before being treated to Maghrebi flavours, as a Moroccan dish of red mullet, confit eggplant and saffron sauce (Dhs168) arrives for our main. For our final course, we’re in Cuba for dessert, and a neat serving of the pina colada (Dhs68) arrives – with a Bord Eau spin, of course. Slightly heavier on the coconut which we’re fans of, there’s the subtlety again. Abu Dhabi is indeed, an archipelaggo, and this is a fitting finale to our culinary journey this evening.

Take your time chatting with their staff, to gain a deeper understanding of what pairs best, what inspires their creations, and more. And as serene and ‘gramworthy as their interiors are, we wouldn’t change anything about our experience after being seated on their terrace to soak in gorgeous views of Abu Dhabi’s own Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque.

What’s On verdict: Bord Eau gets the concept of a culinary voyage right – equal parts fuss-free and culinary class.

Bord Eau by Nicolas Isnard, Shangri La Qaryat Al Beri, Khor Al Maqta’a, Abu Dhabi, 6pm to 11pm, Tues to Sun. Tel: (0)2 509 8555. @bordeaubynicolasisnard

Images: supplied