Putting high-octane theatrics into modern Japanese dining…

When FIVE LUXE made its hotly anticipated debut earlier this year, its splashy beach club Playa Pacha; and export of lauded Barcelona bar Paradiso were much discussed. But Japanese restaurant Ronin got less of the limelight. So when we dine one mid-week night in August, we’re surprised to see it so busy. Granted, upon arriving for our 7pm reservation, we’re perhaps the second table to be seated. But by 9pm, there’s barely a free table in the restaurant.

Situated in a strip of restaurants and bars on the hotel’s 9th floor, we’re greeted out of the elevator by a friendly hostess. To the right you’ll find Paradiso; instead, we’re guided to the left, along the terrace of soon-to-open French restaurant Tete a Tete to the entrance of Ronin, lit by a neon red sign that confirms we’re in the right place. We gaze enviably at the lounge seats that line the terrace, complete with lovely sea and Ain Dubai views that will make it a sought-after sundowner spot when the weather cools.

Inside, the restaurant is as Instagrammable as you’d expect: hundreds of red lanterns hang from the ceiling, private dining can be enjoyed in elevated pergolas or at a sushi bar that runs along the entire length of the huge open kitchen, and as every guest walks in, a gong is sounded. A special mention should be given to the music, a mix of R&B and house hits that adds to the ambience, without drowning out what our dining partner is saying.

We perch up at the sushi counter, and are immediately greeted by chef SK Choi, the animated head chef behind Ronin’s menu of modern, fun-dining Japanese dishes. Throughout the night, he’s frequently in and out of the kitchen, checking-in on diners and serving up dishes straight from the teppanyaki grill, providing a level of interactivity that guests lap up gleefully.

The extensive menu is the kind you want to return to time and again to try everything, and as we peruse it, we order edamame (Dhs40), which arrives piping hot and straight from the Teppanyaki, seasoned with just the right amount of salt. The crispy tuna pizza (Dhs140) is an excellent place to start, with a crispy tortilla base layered with slivers of tuna, and topped with slices of jalapeno and grated truffle added at the table. We’re not such fans of Ronin’s take on KFC (Dhs80), and the pieces of chicken stuffed with a truffle mochi rice are a little dry. The Wagyu) beef gyozas (Dhs105) fare much better, set on a bed of ponzu butter, they get the ratio of crispy and juicy just right, although perhaps don’t need the truffle shaving topping.

It’s easy to fill up on the starters and sushi, but save room to try the ise ebi giant prawn (Dhs180), which serves up meaty pieces of prawn with a punchy garlic jalapeno butter; and the kimchi beef fried rice (Dhs85), perfectly salty with a golden egg yolk mixed in.

Whether you’re looking to end your meal indulgently, or something a little lighter, the concise options have something to suit everyone. The light and fruity mochi (Dhs55) are the perfect antidote to the sugary Japanese donuts (Dhs55), stuffed with caramel and served with a side of ice cream.

Verdict: Fun dining that doesn’t compromise on quality? Make date night reservations ASAP.

Ronin, FIVE LUXE, The Walk, JBR, daily 6pm to 2am. Tel: (0)58 202 2110. @ronin_dubai