Review: Valgerand Nordic Grill on Mamsha Al Saadiyat
Nordic smokiness meets Saadiyat serenity at this star grill house…
Stroll along Mamsha Al Saadiyat, and you’re looking at one gorgeous concept after the other. Voyage from the super-athlete-backed flavours of Italy to the succulent cuts of Japan, to brilliant burger concepts, before you alight on Scandinavian dining with Valgerand, like you’ve never experienced before.
Concept
There’s so much you can enjoy here, because in addition to stellar service and a supremely enthusiastic team powering the show, Baltic flavours and Nordic detail headline the menu at this laid-back, Abu Dhabi-suited grill and restaurant by the beach.
Menu
Stepping in from a scorcher, we’re seated and treated to a grapefruit cocktail that leans towards the sour side but cools us down in seconds. “The three elements that define Valgerand’s menu are salt, smoke and fire”, head chef Hannes tells us. They speak passionately of their smoker, whose prowess we’re about to be introduced to.
For starters, we begin with the carrot smoked soup with pumpkin seed (Dhs45). Just when you’re about to glance at it and begin comparing it to a typical Levantine lentil soup, you’ll have your assumptions go up in smoke only one soup spoon later. It’s rich, creamy, and you’re not going to leave any uneaten before you proceed to your next dish.
We’re also introduced to some of Valgerand’s lighter bites, en route to our main. Enter a flavourful goat cheese and beetroot half-moon carpaccio (Dhs55) with honey-hazelnut dressing. Light, fresh and perfect for summer. Next, we also try the potato rosti and cold smoked Norwegian salmon (Dhs65), a perfect comfort food-of-sorts before we move to the big show.
It is now time for our main, and the Estonian Burger (Dhs97), their heavy hitter that built the Valgerand brand arrives, and we’re admittedly curious about what drives its popularity. That curiosity vanishes one bite in, with a tender demi-glace sauce angus beef patty, pickles, and the works meshing marvellously with brioche, another star addition that’s taken the capital’s burger joints by storm of late.
For dessert, we’re served the Estonian cheesecake, made with three different cheeses, and the Estonian marzipan and plums (Dhs49). The latter is an instant hit, with salted caramel-marzipan praline succinctly reminding us indulgence is a joy best served sweet.
Between bites, we chat with their chefs and management. The passion is evident, and the storytelling sincere. These are minds that honed their culinary skills in the Baltics for decades leading up to showtime in the UAE capital, and they’ve risen to the occasion brilliantly.
What’s On Verdict: Explore excellent Estonian flavours on a menu as striking as the Northern Lights. You’ll commend them, highly.
Valgerand Nordic Grill, Mamsha Al Saadiyat, Saadiyat Island, Abu Dhabi, Sun to Thurs noon to 11pm, Fri and Sat noon to midnight. Tel: (0)2 444 6674. @valgerand
Images: supplied