Reviewed: The Hide
Can the new Al Qasr meatery persuade steak lovers to swap filet mignon for flat iron?
Flank steak, hanger steak, flat iron steak. What do they all have in common? According to chef Nick Cuadrado, they are the butcher’s best kept secrets.
Red meat is clearly the star at this relaxed restaurant in Al Qasr (it replaced MJ’s Steakhouse), where the décor is all polished wood, exposed brick and cosy, squishy booths.
Before delving into the signature steaks we mentioned earlier, we started ‘lightly’ with the DIY steak tartare (Dhs70), a roughly chopped mixture of pink beef and rose veal that you flavour yourself using a spice grinder and the restaurant’s homemade tonic. Meanwhile, the surf ‘n’ turf gnocchi (Dhs60) – featuring a jumbo prawn and a tender beef fillet in a creamy lobster sauce – was heavy, but the ingredients complemented each other well.
While more conventional cuts are available, The Hide places emphasis on those “forgotten cuts” – and the kitchen team transforms the long neglected flanks, flat irons and hangers into wow-worthy meals.
Our hanger steak (Dhs165) was impeccably cooked and served with sweet caramelised onion, roasted romaine and a fried duck egg. The flank steak (Dhs165) with thyme portobello mushrooms was equally tasty.
The side dishes were as good as the main event; the crispy Idaho skin-on fries (Dhs25) with smoked salt were delicious, and we couldn’t stop piling our plates with the creamed kale with gruyere cheese (Dhs25), a decadent take on everyone’s favourite leafy green.
Our dessert choices were less successful, however. The soufflés (Dhs45 each) – one cheesecake and one chocolate and hazelnut – were nice, but didn’t quite measure up to what had come before. Sweet tooths might leave a little unsatisfied, but The Hide is a carnivore’s dream.
Al Qasr, Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai, daily noon until 3pm, 7pm to midnight. Tel: (04) 4323232. Taxi: Al Qasr, Madinat Jumeirah. jumeirah.com
Atmosphere: Romantic and cosy
Price: Dhs250 to Dhs749 for two