Review: Caviar Kaspia Dubai
Undeniably cool and adored by celebrities, Caviar Kaspia comes to Dubai. But can it live up to its Parisian counterpart?
To stand out in a crowded market such as DIFC, you need to bring something new to the table. Amongst a sea of fine dining hotspots, Caviar Kaspia has set out to inject Parisian cool with Russian glamour to Dubai’s coveted dining district.
The exterior is definitely distinct, with chilling blue spotlights and an art deco entrance under a large blue banner that marks the restaurant’s heritage. Since opening in Paris in 1927, the brand has become synonymous with celebrity guests and hedonistic dining.
Split over two levels, downstairs is formal and cosy, with thick carpet and heavy furniture surrounded by historical paintings in wooden frames. Blue-clothed tables are lit with dim table lamps as waiters effortlessly glide between them, topping up drinks and recommending signature dishes.
Of course Caviar is a focus, but while many dishes feature the delicacy, guests can opt for plates without. One of the most popular is the Kaspia baked potato, which is served with a generous helping of caviar, eaten with a miniature ceramic spoon.
We start with tuna tataki (Dhs85) which doesn’t feature caviar but does come with a delicious sesame oil and yuzu dressing. The yellowfin tuna is lightly kissed with heat to create a seared outline, and topped with fresh arugula.
Another famous dish is smoked salmon served on a pancake, like a jumbo bellini. Guests can choose which salmon they prefer (from Dhs95), and the waiter will prepare it fresh to the table. Although Caviar Kaspia as a concept is designed on an individual basis, this one is great for sharing.
Upstairs, the party starts pumping as the resident DJ provides an upbeat playlist that compliments the buzz of coversation. There’s a semi-outdoor terrace and bar, plus more dining space for guests who want a livelier experience.
Craving the pasta dish we’d seen posted all over Instagram, we order the tortiglioni with Caviar Kaspia (Dhs285). Large tubes of deliciously creamy pasta arrive doused in 25 grams of Baer caviar. It’s a simple dish, sure, but oh so tasty.
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The humble baked potato is given a luxury upgrade with your choice of caviar (starting from Dhs380) or salmon roe (Dhs220). While it seems odd at first to eat such a nostalgic dish with a ceramic cutlery, we’re all for being part of the Kaspia experience that has succeeded for almost a century.
Before we make our way up to the second floor to continue the night in style, we have just enough time for a portion of pavlova (Dhs65) – another nostalgic treat. Crunchy, fluffy meringue is topped with a generous helping of berries and cream, making for the perfect light dessert to finish on.
So, does DIFC have space for a new concept? Just about. But can Caviar Kaspia Dubai live up to its name, and stand out in the crowded market? Absolutely.
Caviar Kaspia Dubai, Gate Village 2, DIFC, Sat to Wed 12pm to 1am, Thur & Fri 12pm to 2am. Tel: (0)4 243 5633. @caviarkaspiadxb