Review: Agatha is a brand new, buzzing feast for all the senses

But can it stay that way?

Agatha is stunning. That is the simple, three-word review of this new designer piece on Dubai’s culinary collection shelf, because that is what it feels and looks like – very grand, very expensive and so very Dubai from inside out. Dubai is no longer just the name of this great city we call home. It’s now also a term, full of promise and emotion, used to describe a very specific breed of restaurants, where aesthetics are king and Asian-fusions of every palatable variety are rampant.

The ambiance

How these elements came to become a local signature is still in question, but we know why. Here, glamour is all the rage and Agatha is testament to that. A heavy curtain is pulled aside for us, almost theatrically, as we step inside. It’s a cavernous space, made to look big with the illusion created by climbing high ceilings. The interiors reflect that rich French-British aesthetic, with red velvet all around – from the carpeted floor to the chairs. Blue floral wallpaper and big, bold and gold vintage arches reminiscent of the 1950s make up the fine details.

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A couple is seated next to us. Held hands and punctuating laughs tell me that this is a successful date, and I have a hunch the spot will see many more to come, because the perfectly romantic lighting and that gorgeous halo pink bar are sure to impress anyone. As we glance over the menu – a fusion of Asian and French – and choose our drinks, the mostly empty tables start to fill up as the weekend crowd trickles in.

The food

To begin we are served the Hamachi – Japanese yellowtail marinated in a bright dressing. The fish has a pleasant acidic kick and the dollops of jalepeno cream add some body to the bite. Light but with dimension and one of my favourites. The miso beetroot salad to go with is a sweet mix of beetroot, figs, edamame puree and goat cheese too little to have made an appearance to the party. A little goes only so much of a way.

Our next round comes as wagyu beef gyoza which while delicious, is standard, and the lamb tsukune, which is stellar with a charcoal, umami smoke so flavourful, nothing is left behind on the plate. The dipping sauce to go with is made for us on the spot, with a raw egg yolk beaten into the liquid tamarind and yuzu kosho.

For the mains, we sample the roasted koji chicken and the lobster soba noodles. The chicken is tender and wholesome but the sauce it sits in does all the heavy lifting. Sharp, but not too sharp, with gochujang, vinegar and koji. This is the crowd-pleaser and sure to satisfy even the most picky eaters. The soba noodles are a welcome deviation from the overall palate of mostly savoury flavours, with earthy buckwheat noodles, a rich miso sauce and simple grilled lobster. A noteworthy side is the yakimeshi – garlic fried rice that packs a flavour punch with sumac and shiso

To conclude, we are served vanilla mochi, that comes shrouded in a cloud of mist for reasons unknown, and a chocolate salted caramel lava cake that we almost lick clean out of the dish. Eaten warm with generous spoonfuls of quality vanilla ice cream, it’s a smashing finish to the experience.

By the time we are ready to leave, the place is alive and not a single table is empty, with more patrons standing at the bar. Big groups, small groups, mixed groups and couples – every measure of diner is here, and enjoying the most quintessential Dubai food I’ve ever had.