Travel focus: the sights, smells and steps of Lisbon
A beautiful, hilly and historic city, Portugal’s capital is ripe for exploration…
In the past decade, Lisbon’s iconic cobbled streets have witnessed a remarkable transformation. The Portuguese capital, known for its challenging yet rewarding terrain, has seen its centuries-old castles and traditional tabernas embraced by contemporary museums, vibrant concept stores, and bustling food halls. This blend of the old and new creates a captivating mosaic of experiences, making Lisbon one of today’s most sought-after travel destinations. With 30 million tourists braving its infamous hills each year, the city promises throbbing hamstrings but unforgettable adventures. Here are eight unmissable experiences in Lisbon.
Castelo de São Jorge
Perched high above Lisbon, the imposing Castelo de São Jorge is impossible to miss, offering a commanding view over the city and the River Tagus. Originally constructed by the Romans in 200BC, this historic fortress underwent significant renovation in the 1940s and has since become one of Lisbon’s most popular tourist attractions. Given its popularity, expect crowds; visiting in the morning or late afternoon, and purchasing tickets online to skip the queue, is highly recommended. Despite the bustle, standing atop the castle and soaking in the panoramic views of Lisbon’s terracotta rooftops is an unforgettable experience. For first-time visitors, this iconic monument is a must-see.
Sardines
With its prime Atlantic location, seafood is a must-try in Portugal, and nothing embodies the local flavour quite like sardines. In the summer, the city turns into a massive barbecue as sardines are grilled on the streets. These small fish have a strong aroma, making them impractical for indoor cooking, but perfect for alfresco feasts during balmy Mediterranean summers. Beyond the grill, you’ll find sardines canned in oils, alongside other seafood like octopus and salmon, available everywhere from grocery stores to top restaurants.
Tram 28
If you need to give your feet a rest for a day, Lisbon’s iconic Tram 28 is a must-do for any visitor, trundling along a 4.3-mile route from Campo de Ourique to Praça Martim Moniz. This classic wood-panelled tram twists through tight turns and climbs steep inclines, passing some of the city’s most charming attractions. Commissioned in the 1930s, the Remodelado trams were specifically designed to conquer Lisbon’s hilly terrain. Beware, though: they can get painfully crowded, especially during peak season. To enjoy unobstructed views of picturesque hilltop neighbourhoods like Graça and Alfama, catch an early ride – trams start as early as 5.40am on weekdays and 6.45am on Sundays.
Just walk!
No visit to Lisbon is complete without a stroll through the historic suburbs of Alfama and Mouraria, which cascade down the hillside below the castle. Wander along winding lanes flanked by beautifully tiled palaces and discover shady squares lined with fragrant orange trees and bars where sardines grill over open coals. Forget about navigating a specific route; aim to get lost and you’re sure to find a picturesque corner with striking city views. Just make sure to pack your trainers.
Time Out Market
Dining in Lisbon is one of the city’s greatest pleasures, but a fantastic starting point for any visitor is Time Out Market – the now iconic food hall, which features some of the most popular restaurants and bars in the city. There you’ll find locally sourced seafood, addictive cheese-filled pasteis de nata pastries, burgers, pizzas, sushi, pad Thai, and traditional Portuguese plates, all served up within a bustling 18th century building.
LX Factory
For a taste of contemporary Lisbon, head to the trendy district of Alcântara and explore LX Factory. Once an industrial complex of 19th-century factories, this vibrant hub was transformed in 2008 into a bustling enclave of cool boutiques, restaurants, bars, and office spaces. Dive into fair-trade fashion at Etnik Spring, admire the eclectic art – from large-scale watercolours to quirky drawings – at O Gabinete Da Madame Thao, or browse for upcycled home decor at Saudade Design. LX Factory offers a dynamic mix of creativity and modern flair that’s perfect for any urban explorer.
MAAT
Step into the Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology (MAAT) for a celebration of all media forms. This August, MAAT hosts an extensive exhibition by Nicolas Floc’h, a renowned French photographer known for his work on the sea. The exhibition, The Colour of Water – The Tagus River, features a large mural composed of 408 photographs that capture the river’s mesmerising colour scale and dramatic seabed images affected by the archipelago’s sulphurous waters. What makes this museum truly special is its stunning architecture and prime location. Housed in a curvy, ceramic-tiled building designed by British architect Amanda Levete, MAAT sits along a sloping riverside terrace that’s perfect for people-watching. Once you’ve had your art fill, hire a scooter and zip along the river and under the bridge for a breezy journey back towards the city centre.
Fado
You can’t visit Lisbon without getting serenaded at a fado bar. Translating to ‘destiny’ or ‘fate,’ fado music is believed to have originated in the port districts of Alfama, Mouraria, and Bairro Alto in the early 19th century. Today, you can climb the winding Lisbon hilltops to find numerous fado bars where you can knock back shots of Ginjinha, a sour cherry liqueur, and listen to the melancholic melodies and rich storytelling lyrics of fado. For a truly intimate setting, visit Tasca do Chico in Bairro Alto, where fado nights occur a few times a week, and patrons are even invited to sing along.
Hotel 1908
Hotel 1908 is a Lisbon gem housed in a stunning 20th century Art Nouveau building that commands attention on a beloved corner of the city. Its grandeur is unmistakable, offering a luxurious experience at an accessible price point. Renovated in 2019, the hotel pays homage to Portuguese artists, integrating their works seamlessly into the building’s historic nooks and crannies. Service and attention to detail are paramount here, evident in the soothing colour scheme and personalised concierge service that greets guests by name. Opt for the Superior Room, which comes with a narrow balcony overlooking the bustling Intendente square and Castelo de São Jorge. Rooms start from Dhs1,079 per night.
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