Review: Pincode, at The Galleria Al Maryah Island
Enjoy the journey, destination, and everything in between…
Background
Chef Kunal Kapur, of MasterChef India fame has brought the newest outpost of his sizzling eat, Pincode, to The Galleria Al Maryah Island. With a sparkling menu inspired by his travels across the country, we’re briefed ahead of its opening that “every dish is like a little postcard from every corner of India, inspired by his travels and love for regional flavours”.
Ambiance
Gorgeous interiors that speak volumes of the country’s rich history, diverse cultural elements and flora and fauna ensure you’re not just here for a meal, but to take a trip down memory lane. A quick glance of the framed art on their walls will introduce you to everything from tales of yesteryear, to horsemen ready for combat, to upholestry adorned with imagery of endangered species.
Parties of enthusiastic Friday lunchers fill up neighbouring booths, with the cuisine proving a draw with a multitude of ethnicities. The music is vibey and upbeat, but soft enough so you can engage in conversation, while the staff are attentive, don’t hover and can enlist the ingredients of every creation effortlessly – an ability they credit to 15 days of rigorous training ahead of the big opening.
Chef Kapur tells What’s On: “I grew up living around extended family, and it was the male members at home who would engage in friendly competition to see who could prepare the best dishes. Naturally, I picked up from where they left off, and I was supported to pursue a career that then, wasn’t seen as a mainstream choice.”
Menu
Fall in love with the flavours of India at Pincode, where every last tastebud shall be awakened. While the venue is not licensed as yet, their refreshing pick of mocktails includes hits such as the Nubra(Dhs40), a grapefruit-infused, summery concoction, as well as our favourite, the Madurai Bloom (Dhs40), that will have you viewing life through rose-tinted glasses. This ode to the Southern Indian city is served with a small rose, and while it isn’t sweet, includes gulkand, a sweet paste of rose petals popular in the region, and arrives in theatrical fashion.
For appetisers, we begin with the dhokla chaat (Dhs40), with the popular western-Indian party treat marinated in buttermilk and served with passionfruit gel and wasabi peas. It fares exceedingly well on warmer days, and is the ideal accompaniment when you pick starters such as the harissa paneer tikka(Dhs58), a roasted dish that skilfully marries famed Indian cottage cheese and spices native to North Africa – all served with a spattering of garlic sauce. If you prefer something a little milder, go with the bhutte ke kebab(Dhs55), delicate corn cakes that almost come apart upon being poked, and served with sriracha.
For mains we get a culinary stalwart in Indian kitchens, the daal makhani(Dhs68), and what arrives as a seemingly unassuming dish with a portion of buttered naans, stars in this flavour-fired culinary caper on a Friday afternoon. This show stopper at Pincode is proof there’s specialty in simplicity, and whether it’s the texture, consistency, the dash of cream, the right temperature, or lentils cooked just right that make it the undisputable winner for us, this really is the embodiment of soul-touching fare for us. If you prefer flavours from the South, try the paneer Chettinad(Dhs68) – sweet and spicy with a dash of curry leaves. Interestingly, they’re served in nostalgia-inducing, tiffin-style steel carrier boxes. Pincode does a stellar job at engaging all five senses throughout your experience at the venue.
For dessert, we’re served the rasmalai tiramisu(Dhs40) in a coupe glass, but just when you think this is a liquid creation, get set to work your way through creamy goodness until you hit real rasmalai, a famous dessert from the Bengal region that will tansport to a big fat Indian wedding.
What’s On Verdict: Amid incredible hues and cultural odes, Pincode flawlessly delivers a flavour fest in the UAE capital.
Pincode, The Galleria Al Maryah Island, Abu Dhabi, Sun to Thurs 10am to 11pm, Fri and Sat 10am to midnight. Tel: (0)2 234 0111. @pincode.uae