Review: The business lunch at Jato is easily Media City's best secret
And we’re letting you into the circle of trust…
There’s only ever one response to “pssst, can you keep a secret?” And that is “yes”. Because people who can keep a secret are likely to be fully transparent about their lock-and-key capabilities, and people who can’t keep a secret will lie because they are functionally incapable of taking another breath until they find out what that secret is. But I’m about to share a secret that you shouldn’t keep – you should, in fact, shout it from the rooftops either metaphorically or from the actual rooftop on which it’s situated, enjoying what I would argue is the best lunch in Media City.
Jato is a Peruvian restaurant, bar and lounge slotted into the space left by Baby Q on level 43 of the Media One building. The loft of this Latin croft means you get privileged views of the surrounding Dubai Marina towerscape, Palm Jumeirah, and Dubai Harbour. On the other side of the windows you’ll notice subtle style distinctions between the various function-based spaces – but with a convergent theme of South American sartorial glamour. Nazca limes, Cuzco crimson, Mayan marbling and flecks of Aztec gold.
We sampled the business lunch menu, which offers such outlandish value, you genuinely will feel compelled to check with the staff that you’ve understood the deal correctly. “Yes sir” it really is one starter and a main for Dhs109, or two starters and a main course for Dhs129. This thrifty economy would make sense if certain elements of service, or quality were offered up to the sacrificial altar, but as we soon found out, not one drop of experiential luxury is spared. The full culinary ‘best of’ might of Peruvian chef John Evans is brought to bear on your accumulated plates.
Our party of six were able to experiment with a fair swathe of the entree spread, aided by our tables’ – and Media City’s hardest working – lazy Susan. The corn empanadas with uchucuta sauce, so lovingly parcelled and densely packed with rustic flavour, sparkle with rare treasure allure. Within this starter collection, you’ll find the wildly exotic and unequivocally authentic – like the excellent prawn mancora tacos, aji croquettes, and the absurdly well-dressed botanical masterpiece that is the Andean Salad – alongside more modern or fusion-led dishes: usuzukuri, the superb wagyu coriander brisket stew-filled gyoza and PFC (Peruvian Fried Chicken).
Chef Evans isn’t done with the show-and-tell performance just yet. The mains are so good, despite the fact you’re walking out at least Dhs109 lighter – you’ll still feel like you’re transporting stolen property. You’d unhesitantly pay twice the set menu price for the juicy, fiery, gloriously Latin mess that is the wagyu burger, alone. The wagyu tenderloin comes with a refined mash potato foam – but search and you’ll find passionate flashes of aromatics and nods to Jato’s jaguar spirit. The chicken tallarin enjoys a similar blending of worlds, with its strips of fettuccine luxuriating in a Peruvian pesto and huancaina sauce.
If you’re partial to sweet treats and have the urge to explore, make your way through Granny’s chocolate cake (Dhs45), she’s eager to oblige.
By no means should you restrict your Jato visits to lunchtime – there’s so much more on offer, but it’s a great entry point, and the perfect start to a no-shame, no-secrets, Latin love affair.
Verdict: The only date you need in your Mayan Calendar
Level 43 Media One Hotel, Dubai Media City, business lunch Mon to Fri midday to 3pm. @jatodxb