A Dubai legend has a new address…

Dubai was a very different place when the original La Serre opened its doors on Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Boulevard back in 2013. The kitchen, at the time, was helmed by a man who went on to spawn a culinary dynasty of his own, chef Izu Ani. That restaurant closed in 2022, but like a decapitated gastronomic Hydra – more coiffured heads sprung up, with locations in Abu Dhabi, Riyadh, Egypt, and Qatar.

The latest locale can be found in one of Dubai’s most exciting new enclaves of crave, City Walk’s C2. But 12 years later, is there still an appetite amongst Dubai’s foodies, for what La Serre is serving?

In terms of look and feel, it retains the Gallic charm and clean statemented minimalism that so impressed with the Parisian-themed progenitor. There’s a breezy outdoor terrace, and if you really squint your eyes and open your Duolingo app, there are gentle overtures of Montmartre bistro.

The boulangerie, with its “hang me in the Louvre” aesthetic pastries, remains a central feature of La Serre’s offering, but we’re exploring their evening dining menu. From the entrees, we’ve commandeered a burrata salad (Dhs105) which comes with raspberries, cherry tomatoes, toasted brioche and basil – a classic Tricolore of balanced salé, sucré and acerbe flavours. The soupe à l’oignon with gruyere-topped croutons (Dhs60) is a craving-pleasing cockle-warmer – but lacks the sort of rugged depth required to elevate it to best-in-town status.

It’s gambas grillées (Dhs135) and l’entrecote (Dhs270) for our cruise through the main courses. Both are vibrationally synced with the restaurant’s raison d’etre, firm bistro fare. The quality of, and craft in, the dishes is not in question for me – but perhaps the pricing ought to be. It’s not that it doesn’t represent value, more that, in the years since the brand’s founding – a wave of similar restaurants have washed up on Dubai shores, some within a stone’s throw of this new location, and the dining scene has become exponentially more competitive. And no legacy, however rich, can dine on old loyalties alone.

C2, City Walk, open Mon to Thu 8am to midnight, Fri to Sun 8am to 2am. @laserre.citywalk

Images: Provided