The three-course Sunday lunch is priced at Dhs495 per person, but can this high-grade roast rival a home-cooked feast?

Walking into Dinner by Heston feels like stepping into another era altogether. The medieval-inspired British restaurant is unlike any restaurant we’ve visited in Dubai where you’re met with magical sliding doors, a giant mechanical pineapple clock, symbolic Tudor motifs, and a wow-factor open kitchen.

Helmed by British chef extraordinaire Tom Allen, Dinner by Heston has quickly become a bucket-list restaurant and even snagged a Michelin Star within months of opening.

Amidst the venue’s decadence and drama, it’s the introduction of a quintessentially British tradition – the Sunday roast – that piques our interest. There are lots of places serving up a good roast in Dubai, but it is quite difficult to emulate the authentic British Sunday lunch experience (roasties to rival your mum’s, Yorkshire pudding, glass of red wine or two, getting dressed up, a post lunch nap etc).

The Sunday roast, a soul-warming ode to tradition dating back to medieval Tudor times, finds its rightful place at Dinner by Heston. What’s more surprising is that this revered tradition is a new addition to the restaurant’s roster, marking a first-ever for Dinner by Heston establishments.

At Dhs495 per person for a three-course lunch and Dhs295 for children, we tucked in to discover whether this Michelin Star Sunday roast was worth the price tag…

 

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Choosing a starter is a rather easy task when the iconic signature Meat Fruit is on the menu – a silky and rich chicken liver parfait disguised as a mandarin, served with perfectly charred bread. Although, the tomato salamagundy offers a lighter vegetarian alternative to start, featuring compressed tomato, smoked goat curd, and lovage oil.

Just before the main course is served, the waiter comes over with a roast potato preview — reminiscent of sneaking one when your mum wasn’t looking from the bottom of the pan. It’s a wonderful touch that adds a sense of homeliness. Arguably one of the most important things on the plate, the roasties here are the crispiest and most glorious shade of golden brown we’ve ever had and are enough to book a table alone.

The Hereford sirloin is carved expertly into perfectly pink slices and served with Yorkshire pudding, horseradish cream, and beef gravy, while the extra juicy chicken, rolled into three pieces with flavour-packed skin, is served with veal and herb stuffing.

The vegetarian roast cauliflower instantly impresses served with truffle and mushroom sauce – the perfect balance of texture and flavours. And, although more than good enough alone, we would have devoured this even as a side dish with our meat (hint, hint).

The mains are served with buttery carrots and shredded Brussel sprouts with beef pancetta and chestnut. Everything on the plate has been well-thought-out and made with such passion. So much so, we’re salivating thinking about it again. It would be impossible to cook up a roast this good at home.

Finally, ward off those Sunday scaries with the Tipsy Cake for dessert: warm buttery brioche buns served with the signature caramelised spit roast pineapple (if only we had space to finish it). The children’s menu is finished off with a nostalgic bowl of jelly topped with popping candy but, of course, it’s the amazingly inventive nitrogen ice cream trolley that steals the show, where the ice cream is made at the table to order with your choice of toppings.

Verdict: It’s rare for a Michelin Star restaurant to create such a homely, family-friendly atmosphere but Dinner by Heston does just that. It may be the fanciest Sunday roast in Dubai but the food, service, and views make this great value for a show-stopping Sunday best. One to book for a special occasion.

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, Atlantis The Royal. Daily 6pm to 11pm. Sundays 12pm to 3pm, 6pm to 11pm. Tel: (0)4 426 2444atlantis.com 

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