Review: REN, Nikkei dining lands in Media City
Sushi Library’s new elevated offering brings something new to Media City…
There aren’t many great restaurants in Dubai Media City, I think to myself as I pull up at the Grand Plaza Movenpick. Sure, we’ve got our fair share of casual eateries, and excellent lunch al desko options. But if you want something a little fancier than that? You’d probably have to head elsewhere.
But REN, a new Nikkei restaurant at the Grand Plaza Movenpick Media City, wants to change that. From the team behind the fast-casual delivery restaurant Sushi Library, it promises a fusion of Japanese and Latin American flavours, in a space that’s grown-up and sophisticated.
We walk through a well-stocked wine cellar to enter the restaurant one mid-week lunchtime. On one side, a grand bar and sake display sits impressively, on the other, chefs busy themselves at an open kitchen, nodding their heads in recognition of our arrival. The decor is sleek: think crimson and emerald leather chairs, gold accents, and warm lighting. Upstairs, there’s even a private karaoke room where you can sing your heart out in a sound proofed booth after dinner. We pick a table by the window, tinted a slightly darker shade so that the moody atmosphere is retained, but not so dark that we don’t notice the narrow terrace, where lounge seating would provide a nice spot for a drink after work.
The menu is extensive, and while there’s a heavy focus on Japanese dishes, it’s laced with Latin American influences, divided into sections including Izakaya bites, signature rolls, a raw section, robata, and main courses. We decide to share everything, and order mostly from the first two pages of bites and starters, largely guided by well-informed recommendations from our server.
The lava shrimp (Dhs54) is a solid start, arriving as a neat bowl of meaty chunks of shrimp coated in a light and crunchy tempura batter, and we happily dunk each one in the accompanying spicy mayo. The miso eggplant fries (Dhs49) on first glance look a little anemic, but we’re wrong to judge a book by its cover, They’re deliciously soft and flavourful, served alongside a yuzu caramel that further enhances the taste with a nice sweetness.
From the gyozas, we love the prawn option (Dhs49), each neat gyoza a generous mouthful packed with cubes of prawn and vegetables. The otoro nigiri (Dhs59) is a bit disappointing, the tuna is quite fatty, and slips off the sushi rice it’s served on. The Wagyu korokke (Dhs44) is probably not something we’d order again, and the beef brisket is a bit dry when encased in the Colombian-style croquettes.
The robata options we order are both excellent. The Wagyu kushi (Dhs129) is perfectly cooked and simply dressed in an Andes sauce, while the marinated miso chicken (Dhs69) is tasty and tender.
For dessert, the tres leches (Dhs44) has to be one of the best new desserts in Dubai. The traditional milk cake is spongy, the evaporated milk bed it sits on soaks into the cake, and topped with prettily piped whipped cream.
We leave feeling full, and while this is a brilliant spot for a working lunch, we’d definitely return for dinner to experience the date night vibe.
Verdict: For business lunch in Media City, this spot is sure to impress.
Ren by Sushi Library, Grand Plaza Movenpick Media City, 12pm to 12am Sun to Thurs, 12pm to 1am Fri and Sat. Tel: (0)50 670 4922. @ren_dubai