Review: Nammos Dubai

A glamorous Mykonos hotspot on the shores of Jumeirah…

In the original Nammos in Mykonos, celebrities from all over the world – including Mariah Carey, Valentino, Hugh Jackman and Leo DiCaprio – regularly swan in, eat lunch and party day-to-night by the beach. With this kind of clientele swinging through the doors, it made sense to bring the brand to Dubai, a ‘twin seaside town’ if ever there was one.

Tucked next to the main entrance of the Four Seasons Resort Dubai, Nammos Dubai has its own private beach, terrace and restaurant. Breeze past the rather frosty reception served by the trio of pursed-lipped hosts (why upscale restaurants insist on hiring them remains a mystery) and head inside.

There, swathes of white linen invite you to sink into a white-washed timber chair and hunker down for the day. The sunshine streams through the tall windows, large green plants provide a burst of colour and smartly dressed – and far friendlier – waiters dash around the restaurant with intent.

The menu is presented with pride, along with a breadbasket and olive oil. The friendly sommelier offers expert tips from a stellar list – anyone for a 2011 Chateau La Mission at Dhs24,450 a bottle?

True to the Greek provenance, the menu exudes a lightness of touch that takes you to the Mediterranean. The burrata (Dhs149) with four kinds of tomatoes, avo, grilled asparagus and olive oil is a classic, creamy start.

From the raw range, the line-caught fish of the day carpaccio (Dhs129) with sea urchin, seaweed and finger lime is beautifully tangy, while the unique aubergine mille-feuille (Dhs86) is a towering masterpiece layered with feta cream cheese.

The spaghetti with shrimp, scallop and basil pesto (Dhs149) is firm to the bite with a delicate hint of garlic and pine nuts. Main courses are perfectly fresh and suitably dramatic, served on enormous platters (for the fresh fish) or wooden boards (for the meat), with highlights being the world-renowned Kobe beef (starting at Dhs486/100g) and the fish of the day (up to Dhs620/kg), both of which are filleted or carved tableside.

No surprises on the sweet menu with profiterole, pavlova and ice cream. The chocolate mousse may be a little light and fluffy for pedants, but by this stage you’ve been well serenaded by live singers, and generally swept up in the glory of it all that you’ll either be dancing or slumped heavily in your chair.

Come with a frisky credit card and give those celebrities a run for their money.

Nammos Dubai, Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach, daily 12.30pm to 12.30am. Tel: (058) 1210000. nammos.gr