Review: Jara by Martín Berasategui
Dreaming of a San Sebastián summer holiday? A visit here could be the next best thing…
In the culinary world, the name Martín Berasategui carries a weight that few others can match. As part of the Basque culinary royalty, this celebrated chef’s restaurants have amassed an astounding 12 Michelin stars, with his eponymous venue in San Sebastian earning each of its three stars through modern twists on classic Basque dishes, meticulously crafted with the flair of a true artist.
Jara, Berasategui’s latest venture in Dubai, is an exciting and unique addition to the city’s gastronomic landscape, found at The Lana, Dorchester Collection Dubai. As the first Basque restaurant in Dubai, Jara promises to bring the essence of Basque cuisine to the region.
Design-wise, Jara is flawless. The bespoke interior design offers a rich colour palette of striking velvet greens and deep browns, creating an inviting ambiance that perfectly complements the bold, sharing-centric menu. The tables for two, with both seats curved in so both diners can overlook the Downtown skyline, have to be some of the most coveted and romantic seats in the city. But the beating heart is undoubtedly the open-plan kitchen, where clay-pit ovens conjure up charcoal-grilled meats and succulent seafood.
The Cantabrian anchovy duo (Dhs90), served in olive oil on brioche and crystal bread, is a brilliant mouthful: salty, sweet, and umami-rich, with the bare-knuckle punch of the anchovies perfectly balanced by the toasty bread beneath. The tomato tartare with stracciatella (Dhs80), a blend of fresh and dried tomatoes, is equally impressive, showcasing the chef’s ability to elevate simple ingredients into something worth writing home about.
As we indulge in the slow-cooked Spanish baby lamb shoulder (Dhs375), finished in the clay oven, then gently carved tableside, the rich, gamey and juicy flavours transport us back to dining in Spain. And when the Basque cheesecake (Dhs90) arrives, its creamy, light, and soft texture is the perfect finale to an exceptional dining experience.
Sitting at our cosy table for two, we can’t help but be besotted by it all. Even the parade of suited-and-booted floor staff, who enthusiastically declare everything “amazing,” can’t dampen our enthusiasm, for we really can’t disagree. Jara is a triumph.
Verdict: Impressive views and seriously good ingredients – the perfect romantic night out
Jara, 18th Floor, The Lana, Dorchester Collection, Marasi Drive, Business Bay, 6pm to midnight, Tues to Sun. Tel: (0)4 541 7755. @jarabymartinberasatuegui