The Dubai icons: legendary hole-in-the-wall eateries you need to visit

A blast from the past packed with flavour

For many long-time Dubai residents out there, there is a food culture and scene completely different to what we’re seeing now. Before the fancy, frilly spaces and sushi covered with gold leaf, we had the small, humble restaurants. These are the iconic firsts, the pioneers of eateries who come to this land when it wasn’t much and set up shop. Several of those are running to this day, and can be considered a hugely important part of the city’s urban history. If you’re curious to see where it all began, check out this list.

You probably know these…

Al Ustad Kabab Special Kebab

Serving since: 1978

Al Ustad Special Kabab was the brainchild of Haji Mohammed Ali Ansari, an Iranian expat who came to Dubai, made it his home and gave it this gem in 1978. Not much has changed since, except those who helm it, and the global fame. Here, you’ll find no fancy spreads or mind-numbing variety. Just great kebabs and a legacy few can match – the walls will tell you, pictures plastered of every famous face you can think of paying a visit on the walls. UAE royalty included.

@ostadi_1978

Ravi

Serving since: 1978

A family restaurant, Ravi is one of the most iconic spots of Dubai. It was established by the mild-mannered Chaudary Abdul Hameed in 1978, a labourer who came to the UAE from Pakistan in the hope for a livelihood and a better life. He helmed this ship until his sons. Waqar, Waheed and Waseem joined the business in key positions and have been running it ever since. Ravi has become something of a rite of passage in Dubai, a symbol of pop culture and a hotspot that not only attracts new tourists but age-old regulars.

@ravirestaurantsuae

Discover these…

Joshi Restaurant and Cafe

Serving since: 1968

This restaurant is nearly six decades old, and was established by Murlidhar Parmanand Joshi as Bur Dubai’s first restaurant in 1968 to serve the Bhatia community, the only place in the city that served Indian vegetarian food at that time. This is considered to be the longest-running business in Dubai that’s still running – older than the UAE itself – with a hole-in-the-wall cafe, confectionary and catering section. It couldn’t get simpler than this, but people flock from all over the country for a spot and a bite.

Sind Punjab

Serving since: 1977

Sind Punjab, located in Meena Bazaar, was established by Harban Singh, and has been feeding hungry patrons since 1977. You’ll recognise the long lines and the famous faces. Residents and tourists alike flock to this modest spot. The butter chicken here is perhaps the most popular in all of Dubai. Tender, flavourful, with a rich sauce and chicken cooked to perfection, it strikes a balance between sweet and spicy and is insanely economical.

@sindpunjabdxb

Al Ijaza Cafeteria

Serving since: 1990

Another childhood classic for Dubai residents. Ijaza opened up as a small cafeteria on a corner of what is now Kite Beach, and the rest is history. Known and loved for their sandwiches, burgers, fresh juices and milkshakes, it occupies a fond part of Dubai’s cultural history. So much so that even His Highness Sheikh Hamdan has paid a visit (which they advertise quite proudly). The spot remains exactly the same today, with the shaded seating and the laminated menu, and the food is just as good as one can remember.

@alijazacafe

Al Rageef Al Lebnani

Serving since: 1986

Established in 1986 in Dubai, this was previously Al Reef Bakery, and is also something of a Dubai institution, serving up hot, fluffy and freshly baked Arabic bakery items around the clock. Long-time residents will recall making runs to the bakery for fresh bagged quboos and other baked goods. The menu is made up of primarily Levantine flavours, with things like the iconic manakeesh, zaatar and cheese breads and more. It’s located in Karama, standing in the same spot since it opened many, many years.

@alrageef_allebnanibakery

Pak Liyari

Serving since: 2007

This Pakistani spot is touted for serving the best Pakistani mutton biryani and other rice dishes in Dubai. Pak Liyari is another family-run business, established by Usman Hingoro in 2007, and since then, you can find all nationalities of people coming by to dine on some delicious biryani – not just the desis, the Pakistanis and the Indians, but also Filipinos and even Emiratis. Prices remain minimal, and the family has stated they have no intention of raising them to maintain integrity.

@pakliyarirestaurant

Dampa Seafood Grill

Serving since: 2014

This iconic Filipino spot has somewhat of a legendary status in Dubai’s food community and everyone needs to go at least once, just for the boodle fight. Justin Alvarez, of Dampa’s marketing team, tells us that the concept of a table dump and the communal eating experience comes from the military men of the Philippines. The whole affair is a bang for your buck and a humbling feeling in the best way possible, eating with your hands and sharing from one plate, essentially. Read our review here.

@dampaseafoodgrill

Al Mallah

Serving since: 1979

Serving traditional Lebanese street food for almost 40 years, Al Mallah is one of the most highly-rated spots for shawarma in Dubai, and a part of every Dubai kid’s memory – drive-by shawarma pick-ups or roadside cheese bread.  Shawarmas cost as little as Dhs9, or you can order one of their combo meals such as the mixed grill meal which consists of three kebabs, a fattoush salad, hummus and Arabic flat bread for only Dhs40. Whether you’d like to dine in or enjoy curbside pickup, Al Mallah will cater to your needs.

@almallahuae

Bu Qtair

Serving since: 1980s

Bu Qtair started as a humble fish shack overlooking the Jumeirah Beach by Mater Al Tayer, to cater for the growing expat population flooding in from South Asia and the Middle East after the discovery of oil. He came from a family of Emirati fishermen and pearl divers, who, up until then, had this land to themselves. Now, they were sharing it with others, and the shack was meant to fill that gap for them. Today it’s considered one of the best seafood spots in Dubai – authentic, modest and all about good food.

@buqtair_jumeirah

Calicut Paragon

Serving since: 2005

A legendary South Indian spot famous for it’s South-style biryani and other traditional dishes, Calicut Paragon first opened doors in Dubai is 2005, but the origin story goes way back 1939 in Kozhikode, Kerala, when the first ever Paragon was established. Today, it is a mammoth of cuisine, having been rated on our lists for some of the most prominent restaurant chains. The ethos is simple – wholesome food, affordable prices, no nonsense. Many a Dubai kid will tell you all about the weekend breakfasts spent here.

@calicutparagon

Images: Socials/What’s On