Can this British brasserie make its mark on Bluewaters 2.0?

There’s somewhat of a renaissance happening on Bluewaters. It started with the arrival of two new lifestyle-driven hotel brands – Delano and Banyan Tree, replacing Caesars Palace. They brought with them a duo of brilliant beach clubs: sporty chic La Cantine, and eccentric and glamourous Maison Revka. And now, with Ain Dubai back turning, the restaurant and retail scene is getting some welcome new arrivals, bringing  dynamic and exciting new flavours to the island.

Among them is The Spaniel, which promises a quintessential British brasserie experience for guests. Historically, British fare elevated anything beyond the traditional boozer doesn’t work so well in Dubai: long-standing Dubai residents may remember The Ivy or The Rivington Grill, while more recent closures have included Geales and Marina Social. But The Spaniel looks to change that, with a keep-it-simple-yet-refined approach to its décor, service, and menu.

It certainly looks the part. Fronted in a smart racing green, it’s instantly cosy and inviting, and stands out from its rather clinical looking neighbours in The Wharf. Inside, brown leathers, warm chandeliers, and aged woods adorn the two-floor space, and while downstairs feels more casual, we’re guided upstairs on our Sunday afternoon visit, where the seating is still relaxed, but the whole aesthetic feels a little fancier, thanks to paintings hung in gold frames, and a grand glass-backed bar to one side.

The space is flooded with natural light with being inside The Wharf, but it doesn’t affect the ambience, and as live music begins to play – an acoustic soloist performing renditions of hits by the likes of Oasis and Ed Sheeran – you’d be mistaken for thinking you were back in a posh gastropub back in England.

On the culinary front, former Marina Social head chef Will Stanyer has a passion for reinterpreting British classics, and his menu is extensive and interesting. The menus arrive in green and ruby red leather covers, and we peruse the a la carte menu before turning our attention to the Sunday roast, deciding bits from both menus are the way to go.

We order several starters to share, like The Spaniel Scotch Egg (Dhs55), which is a little dry, despite the walnut ketchup it’s served with; and the stilton and walnut salad (Dhs65), a surprise tablewide-hit, with the cheesy stilton, sweetness of the Hatta honey and crunch of pear creating a dish that’s full of flavour. The crab on toast (Dhs115) is also excellent, with a zesty lemon mayo and notes of apple – it’s another creative and well executed dish.

The roast menu (available Sundays from midday) has four options (beef, chicken, lamb, and celeriac, but we go for the beef (Dhs135). It’s quality meat cooked to perfection with a tender pink middle. A light and airy horseradish is more cream than sauce, and we slather it onto the meat, which arrives plated with three crispy roasties and a Yorkshire pud that’s slightly overcooked for our preference. We then heap our plates with the sides that swiftly arrive at the table – a bowl of thick gravy, a cauliflower cheese with the perfect ratio of melty cheese to nicely cooked cauliflower, a buttery carrot and swede mash, and crunchy green beans. They’re generous portions of everything, and all arrive piping hot. Which makes choosing whether to have dessert, all the more challenging. But after perusing options like sticky toffee and Bakewell Alaska, we opt for apple crumble (Dhs55) and after eight chocolate tart (Dhs55). We’re glad we forced ourselves to make room. While the crumble is fruity and warming, the chocolate tart is rich and indulgent, well balanced with a scoop of mint ice-cream. Both encourage us to lick our spoons clean.

The verdict: Casual and approachable service and interiors – paired with a brilliant menu from a team that clearly know their stuff – make this the perfect Sunday lunch spot.

The Spaniel, The Wharf, Bluewaters, 12pm to 12am Mon to Thurs, 12pm to 1am Fri, 9.30am to 1am Sat, 9.30am to 12am Sun. Tel: (0)4 554 3728. thespanieldxb.com