Brunch review: Sunday BBQ at Butcher & Still

Devour smoked meats and DIY Bloody Mary’s at Marshall Roth’s superb steakhouse…

While Abu Dhabi is no Texas, there’s one destination bringing smoked meats and fire-licked treats into the spotlight: Butcher & Still. The multi-award-winning steakhouse in the Four Seasons Hotel Abu Dhabi is spearheaded by chef extraordinaire Marshall Roth, who brings to bear his knowledge on faithful barbecue recipes.

The result is a Sunday barbecue brunch with a line of help-yourself starters such as the freshly shucked oysters, green lip mussels, beef tartare and Butcher’s Cobb salad, with the barbecued meats served deeper into the restaurant.

Start by making friends with head bartender Luigi Landi, who’ll do his best to guide you on how to create the perfect Bloody Mary. With a range of salted rim flavours, garnishes, and free-flow Worcestershire sauce, it’s easy to go overboard with toppings and mix-ins, and what starts as a perfectly balanced brunch drink can quickly transform into a Frankenstein’s monster of a cocktail. Listen with intent – or grab a few already-prepped infused cocktails on ice – and you’ll not go wrong.

Bread, butter, Cajun fried popcorn chicken and barbecue sauce-laden chicken wings are served to your table before the main event, an American dream combo that combines high-quality meat and a simple peppercorn dry rub. The low and slow cooking results in a super fatty and moist brisket that is the star of Chef Roth’s BBQ show. You must beef up your plate with a burnt ends burger, which takes the juicy, smoky and caramelised outside bark of the brisket and stuffs it into a potato bun. As for the sides, face plant into a breadcrumb-topped mac ‘n’ cheese, or the all-American cornbread. There’s also a hot skillet of (relatively untouched) grilled veggies for those in search of a more balanced plate.

The only thing able to upstage that gloriously tender brisket is the pie bar. The larger-than-life counter is lined with a selection of enormous, home-baked delights the likes of which we’ve only seen in movies. Door-wedge sized slices of lemon pie with cloud-like meringue and sticky lemon curd; sour-yet-sweet muffin-shaped cherry pies; and a mind-blowing chocolate pie that’ll soon be the stuff of legends. It would be an American crime not to try a slice.

What’s On Verdict: This is elevated American backyard barbecue of the highest calibre. Pick up heaping plates of brisket, burnt ends and all of your favourite sides… but do your darndest to save room for a slice o’ pie.

Butcher & Still, Four Seasons Hotel Abu Dhabi at Maryah Island, Abu Dhabi, Sun 1pm to 4pm, Dhs320 with soft drinks, Dhs410 with house drinks. Tel: (0)2 333 2444. @butcherandstill

Images: Butcher & Still